Starting out: Film or digital

From: Gisle H

Nikon D40 digital SLR camera with visible CCD ...

Image via Wikipedia

Sometimes, photographers argue whether someone starting out studying serious photography on a limited budget should use film or digital. The argument from the film camp goes something like this: Digital SLRs are just too darn expensive. For the cost of a simple entry level DSLR such as Nikon’s D70 or Canon’s 300D one can buy a pro-grade film body.

I don’t think this argument stand up to scrutiny. If you’re serious enough about your photography to buy a SLR camera, you should be serious enough about your photography to do your own post-processing.

I worked twenty years in a wet darkroom, before switching to digital. I would never go back to the fumes, the stains, and the high cost of working with chemicals and papers. When you are learning, you make mistakes, and a ruined colour print could easly cost $10 in paper and chemicals. Fiddling around with the settings in an image editing program like Paint Shop Pro or Photoshop cost you nothing more than your time – and once you’ve mastered colour management you can outsource your printing and get consistent results at a very low cost. Continue reading

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Lens Flare – Digital Photography Tip of the Week

Lens Flare

Image by suziesparkle via Flickr

Lens flare can occur when a bright light source appears in or at the very edge of a photograph and is often characterized by sun spots appearing throughout the image. It can also show up in your photographs as low contrast areas in your image. While the sun spots can sometimes add to your photo, the loss of contrast associated with flare rarely does.

Lens flare is caused when light enters the lens at such an angle that the light rays do not completely flow through the lens, but instead are reflected back and forth between lens elements. The sun spots created typically show the shape of the diaphragm (aperture blades) the camera was using at the time the photo was created. A lens with a 5 blade diaphragm will produce sun spots with 5 sides. The more problematic issue with flare though is the lack of contrast flare can introduce into a photo.

Lens manufacturers create lens hoods to help minimize lens flare and are made to fit a particular lens focal length but may not always be sufficient to block all of the flare. Lens hoods made for zoom lenses do not work as well as those made for prime (single focal length) lenses as the amount of coverage needed when zoomed to it’s longest focal length often creates a scenario when the lens is zoomed out to it’s shortest focal length, the lens hood itself will become part of the photo and cause vingnetting. As such, lens hoods are usually made to work best at the widest setting on the lens and become less effective the more the lens is zoomed in. Continue reading

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Understanding Camera Lens Flare

Lens flare is created when non-image forming light enters the lens and subsequently hits the camera’s film or digital sensor. This often appears as a characteristic polygonal shape, with sides which depend on the shape of the lens diaphragm. It can lower the overall contrast of a photograph significantly and is often an undesired artifact, however some types of flare may actually enhance the artistic meaning of a photo. Understanding lens flare can help you use it — or avoid it — in a way which best suits how you wish to portray the final image.

WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE

lens flare in a photo

The above image exhibits tell-tale signs of flare in the upper right caused by a bright sun just outside the image frame. These take the form of polygonal bright regions (usually 5-8 sides), in addition to bright streaks and an overall reduction in contrast (see below). The polygonal shapes vary in size and can actually become so large that they occupy a significant fraction of the image. Look for flare near very bright objects, although its effects can also be seen far away from the actual source (or even throughout the image).

closeup of lens flare

Flare can take many forms, and this may include just one or all of the polygonal shapes, bright streaks, or overall washed out look (veiling flare) shown above. Continue reading

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What is a Prime Lens? Why use one?

Posted by David Peterson

If you own a digital SLR camera, or are thinking of purchasing one, you may have heard of prime lenses. Unlike zoom lenses, prime lenses don’t allow you to zoom in or out while taking pictures. This has led many to wonder what they’re good for. If they do less, why purchase one? I’d like to take a few moments to clear up some of the confusion surrounding prime lenses.

How prime lenses differ from most lenses

These days, most lenses in circulation have some kind of zoom capability. To zoom, you either twist the lens or press some buttons on the back panel of the camera. The camera then adjusts the focal length of its lens, allowing you to see things that are further away with better clarity.

Prime lenses are different. They only have one focal length. You can’t zoom in or out. You get one viewing distance, and that’s it.

The most standard prime lens is the 50mm “normal lens.” Its focal length roughly matches where your eye focuses, giving you an image that’s fairly close to what’s in front of you. There are other prime lenses too that come in all sorts of different focal lengths. Continue reading

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Underwater Photography Tips for Underwater Compact Camera Users

underwater photo#1  Make sure you read the Beginner‘s Guide to Underwater Photography

#2 - Cover the front of the housing directly in front of the internal flash with duct tape when adding an external strobe that is optically fired, otherwise you will still get backscatter from the internal flash.

#3 – Make sure you understand the focusing distance of your camera in and out of macro mode. Use macro mode when you are within the macro focusing distance.

#4 – If you use an external flash, make sure you place it as far away from your housing as possible, and your internal flash is blocked, in order to reduce backscatter.

#5 – Bring a dive light with you to help your camera auto-focus.

#6 – If you turn your flash off, either manual white-balance your camera, or set it to underwater mode

#7 – Don’t use digital zoom. Continue reading

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